It’s a fairytale town, isn’t it? How’s a fairytale town not somebody’s fucking thing?How can all those canals and bridges and cobbled streets and those churches, all that beautiful fucking fairytale stuff, how can that not be somebody’s fucking thing, eh?-In Bruges

I distinctly remember watching the dark comedy In Bruges about a year ago. I instantly fell in with it, and it put Bruges on my bucket list. Little did I know then that I would soon spend four days in that fairytale town.

Fall break in Hungary is set from October 22-November 3rd. All of the first-year teachers were looking forward to this break. It was a milestone; our first vacation as teachers in Hungary. I decided to spend the entire break in Belgium. I planned to explore the entire country with Meret and Justin. Matt and Kendahl also planned to meet up with us. We planned for 4-5 days in Flanders, (Bruges and Ghent) and 5 days in Brussels. Everyone told us that we were crazy. “Ten days in Belgium? That’s a long time for such a small country.” Looking back, I stand by our decision. I spent ten days in Belgium, and it wasn’t enough. I could have spent a year exploring this beautiful country.

My trip began in Bruges, of course. Meret, Justin and I took a short flight to Charleroi airport, then a bus to Bruges. The bus dropped us off in the middle of nowhere at the train station, but a very kind local walked us all the way to our hostel. We stayed at St. Christopher’s Bauhaus. I highly recommend it if you plan on staying in Bruges. We had a great time at the hostel’s bar, where I tried Belgian beer for the first time. Two words: Fantastic. Dangerous.

In the morning we set out to explore the town. It rained constantly, and the heavy grey clouds refused to clear up. I was surprised that the weather didn’t dampen my view of Bruges. In fact, it seemed to make the town feel all the more cosy and unique. The red, orange, and yellow bricked buildings stood out against the grey sky, and the soft light made it easy to admire the Flemish architecture. Every street looked like it could have inspired a Magritte or Rembrandt painting. As I strolled through the cobblestoned streets, I truly felt like I had fallen into a fairytale.

Bruges certainly feels old enough to have inspired fairytales. Most of the buildings were clearly built before the 19th century, and the oldest among them are marked with dates in large numbers. 1515, 1600, etc. As an American, it’s an odd feeling to walk into such an old building. It’s almost impossible for me to imagine that Medieval people once inhabited the now modern bakeries, cafes, and restaurants. Herberg Vlissinghe is the oldest pub in Bruges. It opened in 1515, and it has been a must-see in Bruges ever since. The interior is incredibly preserved, and it provided a warm escape from the rain. We had a great meal of hot soup and fresh bread.

Later, we joined a free walking tour. Our guide was an expat American, and he was somehow able to make his tour of the history of Bruges both informative and hilarious. I also loved that he made constant references to the movie, In Bruges.
My favorite part of the tour was waving to Fidel. This lucky old dog spends his days lounging beside the canal. He is so famous now, that he was even featured in the movie.

Markt Square
The next day, the weather eventually cleared up, and I was able to see the famous town square in all of its glory. The Markt Square is lined with picturesque shops and cafes, but it is a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason. The most famous building in the square is the Belfry, which dates back to the 13th century. To the right of the Belfry is the 18th century Provincial Court. The contrasting architectural styles of the buildings highlights the historical significance of the square. In the centre of the square stands the statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck. These two men were butcher and wool traders who led the uprising against the King of France, Philip the Fair. They are credited with preserving Flemish language and culture, and for standing against French occupation.

Brug Square
We also stopped in the Brug Square, Bruges’ second Medieval square. Unlike the larger, more commercial Markt Square, Brug Square was once a massive fortification against invading Normans and Vikings, and it later became the administrative square in Bruges. It also has historically important buildings such as the Town Hall, which was built in 1356. Next to the Town Hall is the Chapel of the Holy Blood. The Chapel is actually in a Basilica, which displays a beautiful facade of gold statues. The chapel claims to protect a gold relic that preserves the blood of Christ. The bottle itself dates back to the 11th century.

Later, we met up with Matt and Kendahl, who had just arrived in Belgium after a trip to Amsterdam. We all went on a relaxing canal tour.

Then, we explored the Church of Our Lady,which is known for keeping a signifigant treasure in its southern aisle; the small marble statue of Madonna and Child, sculpted by Michelangelo in 1506. The sculpture has a long, chaotic history in Bruges. Michelangelo never intended for it to leave Italy, but it was bought by two Brugen merchants. Centuries later, it was stolen by both the French and Nazi invaders.

In the evening, we decided to take a tour through the famous De Halve Maan Brewery. The Maes family has been brewing beer since 1564, and it is the last family-owned brewery in Bruges. Its symbol is the half moon. After the tour we all enjoyed a taste of the blond beer.

We ended the day by gorging on famous Flemish food. I recommend the Flemish stew! You also can’t go to Belgium without eating your weight in fries. They were without a doubt, the best fries that I have ever had.
When night fell, we checked out Druid’s Cellar, a pub which once kicked out an intoxicated Colin Farrell.

Bruges is a magical city. It is unique in architecture, language, and culture. It is a symbol of old Europe, and a testament to the resiliency of the Flemish people. It will always be one of my favorite cities, and I would go back in a heartbeat.
To conclude, I wanted to give a shoutout to grumpy Justin for putting up with us!

Check back for Part Two of my Belgium trip!