Three days at Black Rock Lodge

Deep down inside me, a tiny voice was calling. It was the voice of the wild places, and I knew it was now part of me forever.

Percy Fawcett, 20th-century explorer of the Amazon

In May of 2022, we finally took our long awaited honeymoon. The official one, the big one, the one where we could spend loads of money in a romantic place far, far away. After a good bit of research, we chose Belize. Or rather, it chose us. Something deep within that green jungle called to us and we found ourselves drawn to the adventure and the mystery of the land of the ancient Mayans.

We spent the first leg of our trip at Black Rock Lodge, a beautiful eco-lodge located 7 miles deep in the forest near the untamed border with Guatemala. Known as a top birding and hiking destination, we couldn’t wait to explore and relax in the rainforest. We did so much during our short time there, and it actually ended up being my favourite part of the trip. I also managed to find time to write in my journal every day, which I’ve now documented here.

Day 1

The drive to Black Rock was half the adventure! Once we turned off the Western Highway, we had to navigate along an extremely rocky and pothole-ridden road. After some time, we saw the sign for Black Rock, which led us to an even rockier and more treacherous road — the sign even warned us against leaving it and I wondered what lay beyond the trees.

We drove over rolling hills and through green fields where lazy cows and strange black parrots frolicked. Then, passing through stunning orange groves and tall mahogany farms, we finally entered into thick, dark jungle. The hum of cicadas and a wall of humidity welcomed us to our home for the next 3 days.

When we finally arrived at Black Rock, we were greeted with a welcome drink of fresh watermelon juice and a massive plate of chips and salsa. Then we were taken to Cabin 5, our river-view cabin and the view was unbelievable. From our balcony, we could see the rapids of the Macal River far below and the mountains of the Don Elijio Panti Nature Reserve on the other side of the river — entirely covered in a lush green blanket of trees. The air was filled with the sweet aroma of fresh fruit and exotic flowers and the happy chirping of hundreds of different birds — hummingbirds, parrots, finches and sparrows.

Our cabin made for the cosiest little retreat. The floor and walls were made of slick, black slate, and the windows were always open (but covered in netting to keep the bugs out, thankfully). The simple decor reflected the natural surroundings and the indigenous culture of the Mayan Cayo district. It felt like we were staying outside, one with nature, and it was wonderful.

We spent the evening relaxing in the little freshwater pool and in our hammocks on the balcony, watching the birds and the wind in the palm trees as the sun went down. We then had dinner in the incredible dining hut overlooking the river. The ribs were probably the best I’ve ever had — nothing will ever compare to that delicious blueberry sauce! Everyone there was so friendly and helpful and we had a great time chatting with Espin and Victor.

Day 2

The night before, the sounds of the jungle had rocked us to sleep. An orchestra of cicadas, crickets and tree frogs hummed, croaked and buzzed in unison until we drifted off to sleep.

Then around 2 am, a blood-curdling, guttural roar penetrated the night. howler monkeys from the far cliffside of the river whooped and hollered. They woke us up twice more that night and then at dawn, like a terrifying alarm clock. I tried to imagine what it must be like to hear that at night when you’re lost and alone in the jungle. The sheer terror that must consume you, wondering what was coming. You can just picture the horror on the faces of the first European explorers, expecting to face a large, man-eating beast in the jungle. Incredible that monkeys can make such a sound.

Learning to spot toucans

At 6 am, bright and early, we went on a Birding Adventure with Francisco, a local Mayan Ornithologist. He took us around Black Rock, using his scope to show us Keel-Billed Toucans, Social Flycatchers, White-Necked Jacobins and countless songbirds. According to my list, we saw over 20 different birds species within two hours. It was a fantastic experience and I loved learning about the birds of Belize and chatting to Francisco.

He taught us how to look for the bright yellow belly and rainbow beak of the toucan in the canopy and how to identify different bird calls. We also saw a little Agouti, and a few bats and swallows on the riverside cliffs. After the tour, we had a hearty breakfast and watched even more birds at the bird-feeders!

Struggling to the top of Black Rock Summit

Before the sun got too high in the sky, we set off for a day hike up to the summit behind the lodge. We thought we’d take it slow and easy, a leisurely walk, but climbing 1000ft in the intense humidity was easily the most challenging hike I’ve ever done!

The path took us from the lodge deep into the jungle. Up and up we went along steep, rocky ledges, beneath giant palm leaves that swayed in the gentle breeze and through dark tunnels of impenetrable canopy. Along the way, we took in the sights of the rainforest — strangling vines, deadly spiked trees, and armies of leaf-cutter ants.

We were completely exhausted by the halfway point, and the heat was brutal. It was already 104 degrees and we were melting. At times we thought we were nearly there, but the path was never ending. Rounding each curve revealed a rockier and steeper pass. But, we pushed through it and eventually made it to the top. The view was well worth the sweat and tears! We could see the entire forest from a 360° viewpoint.

On the way down, I had the fright of my life when something crawled (or slithered) into the path ahead. I screamed thinking it was a snake or a tarantula! The pure adrenaline combined with heat stroke nearly killed me and I almost passed out. I was so mad at myself when a cute little lizard popped his head out from the hole! Definitely not the Shelob I was expecting…pretty hilarious.

Feeling silly, I confidently marched down the path assured that we would make it back unscathed. Of course, that’s when a massive tarantula appeared in the path! It was so large I could see its thick black and red hairs in the sunlight. It wasn’t moving, but I screamed anyway. It even gave Patrick a fright, and we both cautiously walked along the edge of the cliff to get around it — better to die from a high drop than a tarantula bite, right?

Back at the lodge and happy to be alive, we celebrated with a beer and rum punch, a big lunch, plenty of water and the most refreshing shower ever. Then we relaxed in the dinner hut in front of the nice big fan for a couple hours.

In the evening, we walked down to the river and watched the swallows swoop and fly about the cliffs. Then we relaxed with an aromatherapy massage in the private massage hut by the river. I smelled of oranges and mint for the rest of the day — so soothing after a long, sweaty day of hiking!

Howler monkeys across the river

While we were relaxing in our hammocks, Patch spotted a tree moving oddly on the cliff opposite our balcony and low and behold, our binoculars revealed a troop of monkeys leaping from tree to tree! They were large and black with long tails, which can only mean howler monkeys. What a dream! We felt like we were camping right in the heart of the jungle.

Spider eyes in the night

After dinner, we met our guide Fernando and began our descent into the pitch black night. Our night hike began near the car park, where we found two tarantulas in their spooky nests. Their webs alone made my skin crawl. Fernando stuck a stick inside and we could see the hairy legs grasp it! Patrick had a go and said the grip was surprisingly strong — I was too chicken to get close enough to try.

Fernando then asked us to carefully scan the fallen leaves for any sign of snakes and I was shocked to see the stark white and black markings of a Fer De Lance! It looked small and I crept a little too close just as Fernando mentioned that it’s one of the deadliest snakes in Belize — and they don’t keep anti-venom at the lodge! Luckily, it was dead but it gave us a great chance to learn how to identify it.

Next, Fernando taught us how to angle our torches just right to spot the glistening eyes of creatures in the grass— a blue spark meant spider eyes and red or gold was a sure sign of frogs. Interestingly, the eyes of snakes and lizards don’t glisten. I was the first to spot the eyes of a Wolf Spider at the base of a tree — very proud.

We had assumed that the night hike would only take us through the safe and easy trails around the lodge but nope, Fernando took us deep into the thick forest overlooking the river. I was terrified of snakes the entire time and mainly used my torch to check the ground in front of my feet, while Patch was on full-on spider-hunting mode.

We were really lucky to see a red-eyed tree frog that had come down from its high perch in the trees — a rare sight, we were told, that only happens just before a big storm. We also saw a few nocturnal mammals, with Patch spotting a gorgeous grey four-eyed opossum hidden in a palm tree, and Fernando spying the silver scales of a large armadillo! And on way back, we caught sight of a skunk, tail fully erect and ready to do damage.

The coolest part of the experience though was when Fernando brought out his black light. The pale bodies of scorpions lit up in the cliff face like stars in the night sky. I was terrified when Fernando suddenly grabbed one by its creepy stinger but he said the black scorpion was harmless, despite its size.

When we got back, we took long showers to get rid of the creepy crawlies, and collapsed into bed. We had had a very full and incredible day at Black Rock and were so ready for sleep. But, sleep did not come easy. Something large was moving and shuffling through the leaves right outside the windows on my side of the bed… I imagined a jaguar but we learned from tracks in the mud that it was just a harmless coatimundi (like a racoon).

The roar of the howler monkeys again filled the night, loud enough to vibrate against our walls. They seemed closer than the night before, perhaps just across the river from us. It is true what they say — the jungle never sleeps.

Day 3

I woke up at 5am, fresh and wide awake. I can’t remember the last time that’s happened. The howler monkeys and cicadas had kept me up, but the jungle at dawn was peaceful. Patch got up to watch the sunrise with me, and said that he hadn’t even heard the howler monkeys! I know he’s a deep sleeper, but they literally have the loudest call of any land animal on earth.

The sunrise was like a dream. At first the cliff ahead was shrouded in silver mist, then golden light burst through and engulfed the canopy around us. The birds immediately began waking up the forest with their sweet music, as if on cue. We walked around for a bit and enjoyed a few cups of delicious Belize coffee in the main hut while we chatted to Freddy, the friendly lodge manager and Fernando, our night hike guide. Then we walked by the river and watched the swallows catch their breakfast.

As we walked, we saw so much wildlife. Every time we stopped and stood silent for a moment, we would spot something high up in the leaves or moving in the underbrush. The forest was so full of life.

Watching the rain

As lunchtime approached, the sky darkened and the air became thick and heavy. We noticed that the birds had gone silent. Rain was coming. We grabbed our things and raced to the main hut to get a better view. The heavens opened without warning and poured down upon us, but the storm itself only lasted about 20 minutes. It was a beautiful moment. There’s something special about rainforest storms. I could’ve sat there all day just watching the rain.

Afterwards, the sun came out and the forest came back to life. The birds started singing and all was refreshed and renewed.

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Tubing down the Macal

We did it! We went tubing down the Macal River and lived to tell the tale! I am honestly still shocked that I did it.

Looking at that dark brown water from the safety of our balcony, I could only picture what lay lurking within, watching and waiting to strike. Water snakes, anacondas, giant catfish — and crocodiles. The mighty Macal resembles the Amazon, and my imagination was running wild.

All my life, I’ve had a very intense and somewhat irrational fear of dark water, probably thanks to watching the Creature from the Black Lagoon as a kid. It’s that deathly still, murky water in lakes and rivers that really freaks me out. So, when Patrick suggested that we go tubing down the Macal, I was obviously scared, but I knew it was an opportunity to conquer my fears.

Before we went, Victor mapped out our route for us and told us how to manage the rapids. We needed to walk 20 minutes up river with our tube, and enter the water once we saw the ‘Tubing’ sign. Then we were to float down the river, through still water and over a few different rapids. If we managed to stay on our tubes over the huge rapids in front of the lodge, we’d get a free drink! I just had one question — had they ever seen any crocs in the water?

“Well I can’t say the crocodiles aren’t here, I’ve just never seen them’ Victor said, “but the rains have made the water nice and murky so you won’t be able to see them anyway!” Wink, wink.

Inside I was screaming, but off we went to hike up river anyway. The trail itself only added to my rising sense of doom as it took us through a remote part of the land where our night tour had previously revealed snakes and scorpions.

Then, when we reached the point where we were supposed to see the tubing sign, we saw only a massive fallen tree blocking our path! Surely this was a sign not to go on! Stay out of the water! But on we went anyway, carefully climbing over the sharp branches, tubes and helmets in shaky hand…all while frantically checking for snakes with a big stick. Not an easy feat to say the least!

Finally, after all that stress, the moment came to face my fears. I stepped into the murky water, sat in my tube…and didn’t move. The water was too still! Too dark and silent!

Patrick somehow caught the current, but I sat there stuck while he drifted away. Suddenly I was alone, floating in the middle of the river. I looked at the banks on either side and all I could see were imaginary, shiny black eyes in the reeds. I panicked. Completely and totally panicked. I burst into tears and started paddling frantically to find the current, but my tube was so wide I could barely get my arms in the water. I must have looked wholly pathetic flapping about like a dying fish!

By the time I caught up with Patrick, the tears were streaming down my face, and he could see how scared I was. He tried to get to me but the current was too strong and he again drifted far ahead. ‘Don’t worry Charlotte, you’ll be okay! This is just a river like any other river!’ he shouted from downstream. I barely heard his words, all I saw was that I was drifting towards the dark riverbank and I just knew that something with sharp teeth was waiting for me there. I panicked again, mumbling “no no no” as I struggled to paddle my way back to the rapids.

Suddenly Patrick was there to save me. He had somehow stopped himself from drifting, and was able to grab onto me. He pulled me into the current, and freed me from the grip of that dark, still water I hated so much. Once I was in the rapids, I was fine! Navigating over the rocks helped me to focus on something other than how deep the river was, or how many creepy shadows moved along on the riverbanks.

With Patrick beside me, I was able to take in the stunning views of the surrounding cliffs and rainforest. We saw hawks flying overhead, and the swallows swooped around us. At the final rapids, we saw Francisco was waiting to take videos of us! We waved, braced ourselves for the fall… and totally wiped out! In the videos, I was basically swallowed by a wall of water, as if I had just given up (probably true by that point) while Patrick nailed the landing but tipped over backwards last minute.

So, neither of us got a free drink, but I really did conquer my fears — enough to actually swim in the river once we were out of our tubes! That is, until I heard a splash down river…

We celebrated with cold beers and a dip in the pool, before enjoying our last dinner at Black Rock Lodge. It had been an exhilarating day and an experience I won’t forget!

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I’ve never been so sad to leave a place. I loved living in the rainforest and falling asleep to the sounds of nature all around me. I knew I would miss our simple cabin and the jaw-dropping hammock views. We had seen too many happy little birds to count, and done so much in just three short days. Most of all, I will miss the wonderful people here — Francisco, Fernando, Freddy, Espin, Derrick and Virginia really made our stay and I hope to see them again one day.

After one last night listening to the Howlers and the call of the jungle, it felt strange to find ourselves back on that bumpy, rocky road. But we were headed to Table Rock Jungle Lodge just up river — and our adventure exploring the Mayan ruins of Belize was about to begin.