In the green haze of one lazy morning, I spotted something in the tree across the river.

Through my camera zoom, I could just make out the spiky outline of an iguana. It was monstrous. I thought of our walk by the river the other day and wondered if it, or anything as large, had been watching us from above.

In that moment, the rainforest suddenly felt thicker and older, and more wild.

It was a reminder that the forest was teeming with life, most of it unseen and all of it entirely untameable. I was merely a visitor here, a privileged observer. I would never be a part of this place — but I could learn to spot the silent watchers in the canopy.

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During our honeymoon in Belize in May 2022, we spent three nights at Table Rock Jungle Lodge in the rainforest. Our River Valley View Cabana was a luxurious eco-hut with wall-to-wall windows, a palm-leaf roof and a balcony overlooking the Macal River far below. From there, we could see right into the treetops lining the river. With such a perfect perch, we could have spent hours watching the wildlife.

Sunset Silhouettes

One night, as we were watching the sunset from our balcony, giant birds suddenly flew into the trees ahead of us. In the fading light, we could just make out their silhouettes — small crested heads, fat, awkward bodies and long tails. My first thought was a turkey…or a peacock, maybe? Whatever they were, they looked completely ill-suited for the treetops, and they gave a shrill call as they flopped from branch to branch.

We found out later that they were either Great Guans or Curassows. Both species are often seen singing in the canopy, although they are now endangered and a rare sight to see. I’ll never forget their awkward dance in the treetops.

Call of the MotMot

In the mornings, we usually woke up around dawn to the chorus of cicadas and howler monkeys, and moved to the balcony hammock to watch the birds. On our last morning at Table Rock, we were particularly lucky.

A keel-billed toucan finally came down from the tallest treetops to say hello and a funny flock of beautiful collared aracaris played follow-the-leader just ahead of us.

My favorite sighting though was a blue-crowned motmot.

I had been wanting to see one after hearing their owl-like call at dawn and dusk. They make a double, low-pitched hooting that literally sounds like “mot mot.”

First, we saw one in the dim morning light. He was still as could be and watched us with calm curiosity. Even in the dappled shade, he was absolutely stunning with a bright Egyptian blue cap and tail.

Then suddenly another one appeared! As the newcomer began to feed the quiet, calm one, we realised that they were mother and juvenile.

Poolside Views

Aside from birdwatching, most of our time at Table Rock was spent exploring the nearby Maya sites of Actun Tunichil Muknal and Caracol. But whenever we had the chance, we swam in the gorgeous saltwater pool and relaxed with a couple of frozen daiquiris from the bar.

At times that pool became a necessity — especially after hiking in 100-degree heat!

Rainforest Serenade

On our last night at Table Rock, Patrick surprised me with a candlelit dinner on the private dining balcony. Everything was arranged beautifully by the staff and the dinner was fantastic.

Without the glare of artificial light, we could take in the blanket of stars above and tune in to the calls of the wild. In the darkness, the pitch-black canopy around us was buzzing with cicadas, nightjars and all sorts of creatures of the night. As we headed off to bed, we heard the sorrowful cry of a margay. It was the perfect ending to our time at Table Rock and a night I’ll always remember in the rainforest canopy of Belize.