There’s nothing quite like a long journey on a lonely road. In Scotland, where the western Highlands remain vast, wild and free, the roads are a challenge — you don’t always know if you’ll make it past that perilous curve or what you’ll find beyond the mountains. Over the years, they have led me to the shores of Skye, the forests of the Cairngorms and the haunted streets of Edinburgh. Yet, none can compare to the North Coast 500.

Beginning in Inverness, the Gateway to the Highlands, the NC 500 covers 500 miles of rugged coastline and misty mountains. No matter which route you choose to take, east to west or west to east, you’ll eventually end up at the wind-swept northern tip of Scotland. The road is narrow and single-track for most of the journey, offering plenty of time and space for taking it slow and enjoying the view.

In early September 2022, Patrick and I completed the North Coast 500 with my brother, Dylan. Dylan had just completed his own incredible trip across the United States, braving the Yukon’s Sourtoe Cocktail and conquering the frozen tundra of Alaska with our dad. We hoped a road trip though the wildest parts of the UK would share that same spirit of adventure.

Our Route: West to East

Inverness > Applecross > Ullapool > Thurso > John O’Groats > Inverness

Most NC 500 guidebooks recommend going east to west to enjoy the gradual change in landscape from the flat grasslands in the east to the captivating mountains and valleys in the west. However, as we had only three days to spend in the Highlands, we wanted to make sure we properly explored the most beautiful part of the journey. Heading to Applecross first would take us into the heart of the mountains right away, with time to see and do everything on our list, including driving through the notorious Bealach na Ba‘ pass, hiking in the Corrieshalloch Gorge, climbing Stac Pollaidh and visiting Wailing Widow Falls.

Once we reached the north, we planned to search for Harold’s Tower, a mysterious mausoleum that’s become something of a Fellows-family legend ever since my parents stumbled upon it over 30 years ago. From there, we’d see the tip of Scotland from John O’Groats and Dunnet Head before heading back down along the eastern coast.

Day 0: Welcome to the Highlands

Edinburgh > Pitlochry > Inverness

Before starting our 3-day trip along the North Coast 500, we met Dylan in Manchester, hopped on a train and spent a couple days exploring the cobblestone streets of Edinburgh. On the train, Dylan made a passing comment about how crazy it would be if Queen Elizabeth II died while he was visiting the UK — and lo and behold, her death was announced shortly before our arrival. A few of the tourist sites were closed to make preparations for her funeral procession in Edinburgh, but it proved to be a real cultural experience as we saw many different reactions to her death among the local Scots and visitors in Edinburgh.

From Edinburgh, we began the drive up to Inverness. We saw a sign for the Pitlochry Highland Games and we knew we had to check it out. Strongmen and women from across Scotland (and Europe!) competed in the Throwing of the Hammer, Tossing the Caber and Putting the Stone. Our favorite competition though was the game of Tug O’War. We couldn’t stop laughing when the massive fraying rope broke not once, not twice, but three times!

By late afternoon, we decided to continue on in order to see Loch Ness before nightfall. We stopped at the dreamy Dores Beach, where the entire loch opened up to reveal the misty mountains in the distance. As the silver water turned pink and purple in the sunset, we looked for Nessie while grabbing a bite to eat at loch-side Dores Inn.

To rest up after a packed day, we stayed in a little hut on a quiet stretch of farmland just outside of Inverness. We looked forward to starting our first day on the North Coast 500.

Day 1: Wild Wester Ross

Inverness > Applecross > Torridon > Aultbea

Waking up bright and early, we headed due west from Inverness toward Applecross, a coastal town in the region of Wester Ross. Just like its namesake in Game of Thrones, the rough and rugged land of Wester Ross is nothing short of epic.

I was most excited to drive the notorious Bealach na Ba’ Pass, a dangerous road through the mountains. By the time we reached it in the late afternoon, the land had transformed into the moody, untamed beauty that can only be found in Scotland. We crossed up and over jagged peaks until all of Applecross and beyond lay below. The mountains of the Isles of Skye and Rhum peered out from across the loch, bathed in shadow and purple mist.

As we drove on, picturesque cottages sprung out from the hills and windswept cliffs along the road. Some looked lived-in and cozy, bringing to mind a warm fireplace with the perfect view of the sea. Others were cold and abandoned, crumbling in the wind. All looked old and weatherworn in that harsh, unforgiving landscape — if not a little lonely.

Whenever the road dipped down to sea-level, we watched the tide slowly recede, revealing smooth, white-sand beaches and little wooden sailboats exposed to the wind. With each mile, the beaches became more and more pristine and almost exotic in their beauty.

Meeting the Giants of Torridon

With evening quickly approaching, we entered the beautiful area of Torridon. The mountains were calling to us, so we stopped on a quiet road near the Torridon Estate to stretch our legs and take in the view. A light fog made for an enchanting walk beneath the mighty peaks of Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Eighe.

A couple of hours later, we rounded the shores of Loch Torridon where the land opened up to the sea. The clouds grew heavy and the trees all but disappeared, leaving us surrounded by dark green bracken, purple heather and tall grass that danced in the wind. Adorable sheep and Highland Cows lounged in the grass next to the road.

To end a perfect first day on the North Coast 500, we enjoyed a Sunday roast at the Badachro Inn, recommended by Patrick’s uncle (a Scotland resident and cozy-pub enthusiast). From out little, heated hut overlooking the bay, we kept an eye out for seals as we ate and planned our route for the next day.

Day 2: Ethereal Assynt

Aultbea > Ullapool > Melvich

It was late by the time we arrived at our little “Pod by the sea” in Aultbea the night before, and we went to sleep completely unaware of the beauty that surrounded us. In the morning, the scene from our window was like an oil painting. The sun was high and bright, the sea was brilliantly blue and the hills looked soft and inviting.

Driving in the sunlight also made for an invigorating start to the day. We had a lot planned for this route, but we couldn’t help but stop more than a few times to search for seals and take in the view of the rocky cliffs.

A steep drop at Corrieshalloch Gorge

After a while, the rocky land had transformed into an evergreen, fern-covered woodland. A short walk through the thick forest led us to one of the most spectacular sights in the UK — Corrieshalloch Gorge. Tip-toeing across the suspension bridge in the blustery wind, we watched the Falls of Maesach crash into the River Droma far, far below. The roar of its waters and the sheer depth of the canyon made us feel miles away, as if we were up in the clouds.

Having worked up an appetite from the hike, we headed back to the coast to check out the famous Seafood Shack in Ullapool, an old fishing village on the coast. It was a difficult choice, but we all decided to go big and bold with langoustines. None of us really knew what to expect, but seeing our plates piled high with little prawn-like lobsters was a happy surprise. They were sharp to the touch and difficult to break, but absolutely delicious.

Ancient wonders of the Highlands

With slippery garlic-butter fingers, we then headed back to the car in the pouring rain and continued north along the coast, until we arrived back in the shelter of the mountains. When the sun finally broke through the clouds, we seized the opportunity to hike up Stac Pollaidh (“Stack Polly”) for a bird’s-eye-view of the surrounding lochs and mountains.

Afterwards, we continued on into the heather-covered valleys of Assynt. Exhausted from our mountain hike, we somehow managed to fit in a rain-soaked stroll to the ruins of Advarek Castle and a slippery, soul-stirring hike to Wailing Widow Falls. It’s impossible to describe the beauty of a waterfall in Scotland, but I had to try.

For dinner, we stopped at Lochinvar Larder for some traditional Scottish pies. There are no words — this was my favorite foodie stop of the trip. Venison & Cranberry, Pork & Apple, Steak & Ale… we only had room for three but I could’ve tried them all. I would move to Assynt just to visit this pie shop every day!

With daylight fading, we crossed the gorgeous Kylesku Bridge and weaved along the coast. Our energy was totally spent by this point, but we couldn’t not stop to see the famous Smoo Cave. We had the place to ourselves (and the bats) which made walking along the cove and exploring the cave and its waterfall all the more magical.

We drove through late into the evening to reach our cabin in the village of Melvich. Even in the dark, we could see the landscape changing with each mile. The mountains and hills grew taller, barren and ever more alien. It was as if we were travelling through the valleys and craters of the Moon.

Day 3: The Tip of Scotland

Melvich > Thurso > John O’Groats > Inverness

If there was one constant of the NC 500, it was that the land never stayed the same for long. On our last day of the trip, we suddenly found ourselves in a flat land ruled by a tyrannical wind. Grassland and crop fields replaced the mountains we had grown so used to, and it was especially jarring after that spooky night-time route through the alien world of Assynt.

It was close to noon by the time we arrived in Thurso. The whole place felt all too quiet and empty as the sea raged beyond the cliffs. In the distance, we could just make out the strange silhouette of Harold’s Tower, the legendary tomb of Clan Ulster — and getting to it, was an unexpected adventure.

Afterwards, we stopped at Dunnet Head where the wind and waves howled and crashed against the cliffs and John O’Groats, where we took a photo with the famous signpost. Satisfied with our time at the tip, we started the drive down the east coast. Before heading back to Inverness, we also stopped at Clynelish Whisky Distillery for one last taste of the Highlands. Compared to the west coast, the drive felt almost too safe and flat but the sea was still as gorgeous as ever.

A haunted night in the Cairngorms and a day in Glencoe

As we continued south, the land changed back into thick, pine forests and it came almost as a shock to the system after being in such wide, open land. We arrived at our Airbnb late at night, and somehow found our way to Strathmashie in the dark, despite numerous road blocks. Our place for the night was called “The Butler’s Attic”, which proved to be the top-floor room of an old stately home — the old servant’s quarters. Driving up to the house at night gave me goosebumps and I didn’t sleep well. Something about the place felt a little spooky.

The morning light revealed the beauty around us though, complete with a herd of sheep and a pride of peacocks to welcome us to the day. We also discovered that it was home to the Creag Dhu Whisky Distillery and we bought a couple bottles as souvenirs.

As we continued our drive into England, we made one last stop in Scotland. I knew we couldn’t leave without showing Dylan Glencoe. Here the land feels ancient and magical. Impossibly green and beautiful, the drive through the valleys of Glencoe never disappoints, especially when passing by the iconic peak of Buachaille Etive Mór.

Bonus Stop: Yurt camping in the Lake District

One of my favorite memories from the trip was exploring the Lake District of England on the way back down to London. We stayed in a little yurt in the woods, and spent the night stargazing, drinking and playing cards around the cozy indoor fireplace and outdoor fire-pit. In the morning, we hiked around the area, meeting deer, hawks and one friendly little robin along the way.

The power of the Highlands

As our time in Scotland came to an end, so did our time with Dylan. We spent another week showing him around the East Midlands and London before we had to say goodbye. As is always the case when living abroad and far from home, saying goodbye to family is never easy. I found it especially hard to say goodbye to Dylan, partly for the great talks we had during our trip, but also for the light and energy he brought to every moment. He’s always ready to try new things and he’ll do anything for ‘a good story’ even if it’s a bit dangerous. He continues to inspire me to push myself and try new things and I can’t wait to travel with him again.

When looking to reconnect with family, there’s not better place for it than the Highlands of Scotland. With so many places of natural beauty to explore, it’s easy to escape and get lost in the mountains and rolling hills. There’s just something about the land that inspires long chats around the fire and quiet morning walks through the moors, like the days of old. It’s a place I think I’ll always return to and hope to see again soon.